The Other Donald by: Eri Kim
He might design high heels and strappy sandals but designer Donald J. Pliner won't abide by tortured tootsies. In fact, Pliner so hates corns and other podiatric conditions -- often the inevitable result of Cinderella slippers -- that he once ended a relationship with a woman because she had a bunion. To that end, and to the ecstatic relief of women everywhere, Pliner, who started his line in 1989, keeps his focus on comfort.
"I call it high-fashion comfort," says Pliner, 57, a Chicago native. "We go from morning to day and night and sometimes don't have the luxury to go home and change. I remember I'd see women in New York wearing sneakers and have their pretty shoes in the bag -- I just didn't get it."
Ever since Pliner launched his line, though, women have been getting his shoes as a rule. "He's gone after the needs of the customer, and what he does well is combining fashion with the comfort aspect," observes Dana Christie, fashion market director for accessories, shoes and intimate apparel, at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York, which carries his shoes. "The remarkable thing about Donald," Christie adds, "is his age span of women he attracts. My mother is 75 and wears his shoes, and then there are women in their 20s or 30s who buy his designs. He understands that there is the deep desire to be fashionable regardless of age."
Word about his stylish but foot-friendly items spread like wildfire among his customers. Now, almost 13 years after making a name for himself with his signature elastic leather shoes, Pliner's company is a multi-million dollar business -- reportedly the biggest privately owned shoe label in the U.S. Apart from three boutiques in Chicago, Miami and Houston, Pliner's shoes are sold at Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale's and have appeared in magazines from InStyle to Vogue. Debra Messing, Kate Hudson, Kim Cattrall, Christina Aguilera and 'N Sync all wear his designs.
With the success of his shoes, followed by an expansion into belts, bags, eyewear and hosiery secured, Pliner is now launching what he always wanted to do: leather clothes.
"I did clothing before shoes, and I always wanted to expand but the timing was never right," Pliner explains. This fall he introduced his first line of leather jackets and pants, sold in his boutiques and 50 specialty stores across the country. But the designer readily offers that the collection, put together "very quickly," isn't "the strongest I've done. The [cuts] were basic with the coloration making the fashion statement," he elaborates. "I wanted to do something exciting, fun and colorful." The response? "Comme ci comme ca," he says.
But Pliner is much more assured when talking about his Spring 2002 line, for which he whipped up little Mod jackets, draw-string pants, running pants – yes, running pants - and mini skirts in hues of lime green, muted purple, turquoise, basic black and navy. Little details like stitching in a different color lend the line a stylish but still accessible element. And Pliner is unfazed by the fact that selling leather in the summer could be a challenge.
"This fall, our boots sold the fastest in history and it's not because of the weather -- it's because of the fashion," Pliner points out. Of course, he has the advantage of using the softest and lightest leather so his jacket can easily function like a silk cardigan. About his preference for vivid colors, Pliner says he wanted "something emotional. Sometimes we wear color because you want to feel good, and why would you buy another black or brown coat?"
Illustrating Pliner's dedication and conviction is the fact that he upgraded the quality of the leather for his spring line last minute by 30 percent, paying for the margin from his own pocket. The decision wasn't only based on his perfectionist streak, Pliner says, but also "for survival purposes. It's probably the best move I could have made." With a week until his first spring shipment hits stores, Pliner shows no sign of nervousness, but rather a quiet confidence. And despite the help of a romantic ad campaign shot by photographers Andy and Adam Ronson, Pliner knows what really counts.
"My shoes spread by word out mouth," he says, "and I'm hoping to do the same for my leatherwear."
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November 16, 2001
Fashion Wire Daily
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